The rest of problems.

Quite heavy rain last night stayed dry which is the best thing, set off about 10am did 1.8km before we found a basic rual camp ground "a la ferme" so it looks as if we are going to get the intened rest day after all. very helpfull owners gave us fuel for the stove and full service wash of the cothes all for 11.25 including camping. unfortunately i think we go leaded petrol and the stove didnt like it. So after going to town 3.5 km away for food i had to cycle back to get white spirit totaling 14 km. Then had to service stove with new jet and nozzle luckily i had the exepedition service kit with all the  spares. Now cooking pasta on  sightly yellow flame always used unleaded petrol in the stove just glad to be having somthing hot in a few minutes.  Not feeling that rested after the hilly road to town and the stress of the stove.  But at least its been sunnie all day and clean clothes for the ride to luxemborg.

Location : Rue de la Mande Brat 15-20, 6860 Léglise,

Map of Italy October

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HoopDrivers Euro Tour 2010 December

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EV5 GPS Tracklog on a Map Italy

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EV5 GPS Tracklog on a Map

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Bicycles on european trains

I left Patra by boat at 23:59, it took 32 hours to reach Venice, it was a pleasant trip sailing up the Adriatic back past Albania and Croatia etc. An inquiry at the train ticket office in Venice is where I was told no such journey was possible with a bike to Paris unless it was in a bike bag. I tried to get such a bag in few other city's but Venice isn't a city where there is even a bicycle shop that google knew about.
I got a train to Milan a bigger city with many bicycle shops I was hoping to buy bike bag there but instead of spending money looking about for a suitable bag I jumped on the next train to Geneve, booking this ticket wasn't that simple. After queuing for a little time to buy a ticket he had found a train taking bikes but every time he hit book trip the computer crashed, in the end i was issued with a handwritten slip to produce to the guard on the train for my bike and by 21:00 I  ended up in Geneve via high speed train, while on board I got chatting to nuclear scientist that worked at cern.

I Then booked into cheep hotel in Geneve so i could get 7:41 to London. They could only get me as far as Paris because all the trains are booked out to the UK till after Dec 25 so I guess its a train to Calais and the boat to Dover unless the eurostar bike service is not booked out better give norm a call when I get to Paris.

Location : Chemin des Teppes-du-Biolay, 1281 Russin,

Venice

The boat trip from Patras to Venice went well food and coffee was of a ok standard for a boat but a little expensive. I couldn't see any signs from Venice port to the train station in Venice which seemed a little weird altho its only half a kilometre away but found my self cutting through the train works yard to get there, then a couple of engineers showing me the cross rails route to get to the station very friendly bunch. Upon arrival at the ticket office I was was informed that there is no solution for getting me and my bike to Paris with out a bike bag. So i brought a regional train ticket to Milan where i hope to be able to buy a bike bag at a sensible price unlike the 229 that i found in Patras. Theres snow on the ground here in Venice and its a little brisk probably get  hotel in Milan and work out my options but one other thought was to hire a car and drop it of in Paris which would save having to buy bike bag and a hotel.

Location : SH 8,                 

Made it to Patra

It was  big day to get to Patra for the boat to Venice and make my way back to England. I had snow sleet and rain to contend with and map errors that forced me to go a the sightly longer route to rejoin the planed route further down the road. The sun came out after 15:00 and gave me spectacular views of the snow capped mountains. I did the last 20km in the dark with even more rain to deal with. There was even a few people cheering as I got to the outskirts of the city if only they knew what id been up to for the last 3 months. Once I got to town it really felt like Christmas with lights and Christmas shoppers every where the roads to get to town where some of the worst I've seen in Greece pot holes and crazy drivers everywhere almost got knocked off my bike with Mercedes SUV skidding to a holt just in time, with only a rear light I was probably in the wrong.
Trying to find a hotel seemed a nightmare as well but got here in the end phew. For tomorrows mission is to head over the the other side of town get a bike bag from the bikecenterpatra.gr shop so i can get on the euro star from Venice or possibly the Artesia night train depending on prices. Seems at this time of year the boat sails every 4 days it also cheaper to go on the 36hour boat to Venice than the much sorter boat to Bari. How they work that out I'm unsure but a trip to the ticket office will settle any doubts there.

I booked the boat to Venice with Minoan lines nice a easy as for the bike bag not so simple although i sent a email over a week ago saying that I was coming to town and in need of a bike bag and the hotel staff ringing to check there was one in stock when I got there he showed me a bike cover and looked at me blankly when i said about the email i sent he was kind enough to find another bike shop on the map on my GPS but when i got there they did indeed have a monster Scot bag for a mear 229 euros not with in my budget and probably way over size for the train company's that stipulate a bag the same size as a suitcase. Unable to find any bike shops in Venice so the next leg is a little uncertain. Milan for sure will have a bike shop so may have to get regional train to there and sort it out from there if it weren't so cold in northern Italy i might have been tempted to visit the chapel of modonna di ghisallo the patron saint of cycling you never now might make one last pilgrimage.

Location : Πατρόκλου 10, Patras 26442,

A winter wonderland

I  awoke this morning to a winterly wonderland climbing the hills to 1306M the snow got deeper probably to about 100mm manged to stay on the bike riding in the car tyre marks. Descending through some picturesque villages where I manged to get more bread and a hot coffee many ancient things to stop and look at but it was a little too chilly to bother. I had to put my other shoes on, as the sole less ones where  little to draughty with my toes feeling the chill the most. A few ups and down all day but now at just 100M asl so there must have been a lot of down. Truly beautiful scenery with rock outcrops and forested hills and  possibly mountains tonight crossed the river Erymanthos which brings me to municipality of ancient Olympia. And just 100km from Patra and no big climbs to get there either.

Location : Πύργου-Τριπόλεως, Αρχαία Ολυμπία 27065,

Lost my sole so im sleeping in a church

Today the sole of my northwave  shoes  came unstuck I had  glued it once before but this  time its much worse, they are a good few years old and have served me well. I  should  be able to patch them up once more to carry me to  Patra. Theres been a little bit of rain today nothing serious tomorrow could be another story tho.
I got to Tripoli today asking about a hotel so i  could dry my  shoes and glue them, just about to pay for room and asked about safe place to leave bike "out front she says" I wasn't happy about that its quite a big city and its a long walk to patra. There is nowhere she said just out front I find it hard to believe that everything comes through the front door.
I left Tripoli winding up through the  tree covered hills with lichen hanging off everything very beautiful climbing to 1000 meters where the clouds where black and rolling over the road I decided  to get the tent up and call it a day when I found a church with the front door unlocked so I'm going to spend the night in here, its now raining and bloody cold so thanks to the big man.

Location : Τρίπολης-Χρισοβιτσίου, Φάλανθος 22100,

Plane canceled onto patra

Methana was lovely and quiet but a total let down with the hot baths closed and ending up in a health spa with the water luke warm at best possibly because of the rain. Decided to head to Patra after my flight was canceled because of a air traffic controllers strike here in Greece from patra taking the boat to Venice where I hope to get the train onto Paris and then to Ashford. Stopped in Naypilio last night and this morning headed to the Heinkon pyramid its actually older than any in Egypt but no where as big. It had terrific views but its use is unclear, possibly a lookout tower. Spending some time there for lunch and exploring the area I actually found a secret hiding place by the doorway into the main chamber,  I was wondering what it was used for there was nothing inside like treasure but exciting all the same. In the end I assumed it was maybe a place for a key if they had locks then or the stone that covers the cavity was used to prop the door open or possibly a space for offerings to the gods. But what ever the use the craftsmanship was impeccable.

Location : Παλαιά Εθνική Οδός Άργους-Τριπόλεως, Lerna 21200,

Tomb raider

Eventually found the Pausanias baths on arrival it felt like the game tomb Raider what we have is  iron rod with a hook on it, a switch board with power and a hose. After playing with all the objects I still have no hot water. It looks as if has had a little repair work done to it with empty bags of cement and new roof tiles strewn about. I read about having to use a pump to get old water out but there is no sign of it here. The  RCD test switch don't work. Poking about with the iron rod in bottom of baths does produce some bubbles but there is no smell of  thermal activity. Just waiting here for a miracle to happen. Ive been to  few thermal waters across the  world and I've got to say new Zealand has the best so far.

Location : Αιγίνης-Σφεντουρίου, Αίγινα 18010,

Methana

After cycling 160 odd km to reach the hot baths of Methana I arrive in town and can smell the sulphur of the springs only to find them closed this month . I find there is another just down the road and when i get there its also closed. I head around to the north side of the peninsula in search of the Pausanias baths near Nikolaos, signs posted from miles away and all along the road but upon getting to the end of the road along the coast I must have missed it. No hot bath tonight back in the tent in another olive grove with the sound of the waves lapping at the shore.

Location : Αιγίνης-Σφεντουρίου, Αίγινα 18010,

Eleusis

I camped on the outskirts of town by the boat building yard, the town is very industrial with the archaeology park located near the center 3 euros to enter and well worth while there was a cafe across the road cyceon where i got coffee before entering i was shocked by the price of the coffee but once they realized i had cycled from England by bike I got a special price on the coffee, and some lovely postcards of the archaeology site, some salted nuts to take away. Which all made up for it. It was very good coffee as well. Eleusis is the place where the ancient Greeks worshiped Demeter and the religious festival called the eleusinina mysteries where held. The word eleusis comes from two Greek words eos  arival and mystririon secrecy  member would walk along the sacred way from Athens carrying sacred objects of Demeter and the drink called Kykeon during the festival not much is known about the proceedings as if any member spoke of what happened it was punishable by death. Leaving in the afternoon and cycling south west along the old coast road towards Methana where I hope to find some hot springs to rest and relax before heading back to the UK for a icy winter.

Location : Παλαιά Εθνική Οδός Αθηνών-Πατρών, Nea Peramos 19006,

Frosty morning

It was a chilly night last night awoke to frozen water bottles and frost on my bags I was fine in the tent with my 0deg rated sleeping bag but had to melt ice for porridge and coffee this morning. Pushed over a few hills to find the old fortress of eleutherai a 4th century BC fortress that was free to visit no ropes or paths just over grown and free to rome and explore, the real surprise was the well a small hole in the ground that you are also able to access below the outer wall as well. No water inside otherwise I would have been able to make coffee for lunch. Carrying on over another few hills to make it to elefsina where I was hopefully going to get a hotel for the night and check out the archaeology site in the morning. I read about this site in a book i got one Christmas where members of the cult drank a psychedelic drink possibly made from ergot.

All the hotels where booked out and expensive anyhow I had a bit trouble finding them so i asked Steve a police officer how to get there on passing back we stopped to talk for a couple of hours and even got a police issue doughnut. Heading out of  town trying to find a place for the tent a number of savage dogs tried to have a go really getting sick and tired of dogs and next time I go cycle touring I'm going to get a water pistol to travel with. Just a couple of km out of town I found a place to camp over looking the dry dock with some big ships being worked on. In the morning I will make my way to archaeology site.

Location : Παλαιά Εθνική Οδός Αθηνών-Κορίνθου, Eleusina 19600,

Delphi

Been resting in Delphi for few days and on my birthday I went to the archaeology park of Delphi first off I went to the museum very modern building with a great number of interesting relics discovered by the french when they got rights to dig there in  1892.

Delphi  is on the slopes of mount Parnassus and has been religious shrine for at least 3500 years, the ancient Greeks considered it the center of the earth when Zeus released two eagles that flew in opposite directions to arrive in Delphi the spot was marked by a carved stone called Omphalos which translates to navel or center.

When Apollo slayed the python snake that lived here its body fell into a crack in the earth. The fumes from the decomposition of its body led to the delphi oracle falling into a trance and giving answers to people from all over the ancient world. It has been discovered recently that the meeting of two earth faults meet under the temple of Apollo and released the psychedelic gas ethylene.

Location : Δελφοί, Delphi 33054,

Corgcian cave day 2

Well I survived the night and food bag still intact as I was drifting off to sleep I recalled the scene in the film 300 where the spartins boy had to sleep away from the home and killed a wolf. Pleasant dreams to night. Ruther scary, wish i'd not had the warning from the cafe owner. Awoke this morning with the sun at 7:30 and had coffee at the cave mouth. Then promptly put the head torch on and went exploring. At the back of the first room is a rope leading up and into another room where I found another two ropes leading to two smaller rooms graffiti scratched into the wall going back too 1902 was the earliest I found. To get top room was a little hair raising at one point I was thinking what the hell am I doing up here.  Inside of the cave is truly magical found two large mice in the top cave we stood and steered at each other for quite while. After about 2 hours I'm back outside making another coffee enjoying the outside air and views of surrounding country side.

Location : Δελφοί, Delphi 33054,

Corgcian cave

Packed up bright and  early this morning the sun was out and had nice down hill ride for about 6km where i found Louis and Matteo repairing a puncture in Louis front wheel said the normal good mornings and how you doing Matteo seemed please to see me but cant say the same for Louis. Set off just before the job was done and continued down hill to Gravia where i picked up supplies and asked directions to the corgcian cave and the road condition. Road sounded fine and in reality it was even better.  The route Gravia on to mariolata, lilaia and eptalofos, where i got a  couple of hot coffees from a lovely cafe and asked directions once more. The turning on the right just passed the ski center and was also informed to be very carefull staying the night up there as the likely hood of bears and wolves was more worried about snow and tics nothing any bigger. When i got just passed the ski center there it was marked with a picture of a person on mountain bike written in greek kopikeion andpo which is corgcian cave i guess. Got there just after sunset and a little jumpy about bears and wolves so found a big stick and promptly rang Friend to say where I was and to expect call from me in the morning. Now in tent and can undead hear a wolves howling but is on another hill far a way or sounds that way any how. Hopping that my mountain hardware tent is Wolfe proof. Got food on bike a good 5 meters a way prob not far enough but got the stick and my butter knife with me. :-)

Location : Δελφοί, Delphi 33054,

Onwards and upwards

Back on track or so i thought till i got to a T junction that was meant to carry straight on but there was no sign of this road just cabbages by this point i was looking for a main tarmac road to just get outta here Ive got some corrections to make to osm when i get a computer with Internet and not a android phone.

The wind has been hot and strong unfortunately its been a head wind i found i had to pedal down hill to move this morning. Got to Lamia for lunch time and quickly left heavily polluted with fumes and chaos on the roads across another small plain in up another hill stopped a the foot of the hill for lunch at a quaint church in a olive grove. The maps are completely wrong again it had me climbing up the same route that the power pylons took impossible by bike but luckily there was a road that snaked up the hill side and joined the original route near the top found a nice level grassy patch to set up camp for the night. With wonderful views over the plain below. 

Location : Ηρακλειάς-Σκαμνού, Γοργοπόταμος 35100,

Routing errors

For the first time osm and bikeroutetoaster has let me down there is some serious mapping errors of the trikala plane its a maze of dirt and tarmac roads and the previous 3 days of rain turned the dirt roads to mud. It started out fine from kalambaka and around metroa spectacular views and very picturesque. Coming down onto main road the route was across olive grove no road in sight it was ok there was another road that joined main road in a few hundred meters then next turn took me into builders yard ummmm. Finding correct roads again but seemed to be out of position by a good few hundred meters. Cycled on enjoying the sun and got to river where I supposed to cross but no bridge, may be there is a ford in summer months but it was swollen by the previous days rain and no sign of a road leading up the flood bank just a rabid dog barking and bearing his teeth. Asked old lady weeding her veg patch using international sign language but only got Greek replies but think i understood there was a bridge in either direction but how far was any body's guess. Eventually found a bridge and many locals looking at flooded river pointing and shaking there heads. Now not to many kms off course and managed to join it again taking a right down yet another farmers dirt road led me into the stickiest mud I've ever seen and Ive spent years mtb in the high weald south of London and that mud is legendary into antiquity. After a good hour of hauling my bike mud and all i get to yet another river that's impassable but not according to my map. The only thing to do was turn back try something else. By the time i was back on the tarmac it was dark and my mudguards where full of mud making cycling a big effort scraped out the best i could with a stick getting long curved sausages of mud. I managed to find a hose and was able scrape mud away and carry on till 10pm where i looked down at the speedo to discover 115km covered today my biggest day on this trip pulled over and slept in a disused petrol station and awoke to beautiful sun and views of snow capped mountains.

Location : Καλαμάκι, Lamia 35100,